Points to owner and chef Kangseog Lee simply for his ballsiness in opening a sushi joint in the McLaren Hotel; and single-handedly, at that. Since mid-July Lee has added only one staff member to help him contend with the lunchtime crowds that are presently the core of his business.
Maybe it’s too soon for some would-be diners to suck up the courage to drop by in the evening for dinner, but Lee isn’t yet discouraged. He’s been making maki in Winnipeg for 10 years and we can personally testify that he’s for real. Try the satisfyingly punchy selections under his menu’s “spicy” heading, like the salmon bakudan and spicy sake, or the avocado, asparagus and cucumber roll—pleasing to both eye and palate—as a vegetarian alternative. It’s the Golden Dragon Rolls that have been a customer favourite, though, and you can also enjoy typical starters such as a tasty gyoza and a prettily presented vegetable tempura basket. As far as ambience goes, like many another Chinatown establishment the fusion of ’50s greasy spoon with Eastern accents is what defines the character here, with the key design feature being the classic diner countertop lined with cushioned swivel seats. And for such a…let’s say…unpolished corner, how could you not love the restaurant’s delicate name, which translates from the Japanese as “snow?”
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